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| 这项运动始于1986年的某一天，在罗马著名的景点“西班牙广场”上有一家麦当劳快餐店，几十名学生一字排开，津津有味地坐在店门口的地上大嚼汉堡包，他们那副狼吞虎咽吃着垃圾食品的享受模样，让正好路过的意大利美食专栏作家和社会活动家卡洛·佩特里尼（CARLO PETRINI）大为震惊，他纳闷到“为什么我们的生活要这么快？”于是，不久后他就向世人发出呼吁：“即使在最繁忙的时候，也不要忘记享受家乡美食。”并决定投身到唤醒人们抵抗快餐食品的事业中去，就这样开始了反对快餐的“慢食运动”。 慢食运动既是一种美食态度，也是一种生活态度。培养生活中的慢餐态度，从精神层面上讲，人们可以静静地体味以6个M为内涵的慢食文化。 可概括为： Meal —— 精致的美食 Menu —— 华美的菜单 Music —— 迷人的音乐 Manner —— 优雅的礼仪 Mood —— 精致的美食 Meeting —— 愉快的会面 国际慢食协会的标志是一只蜗牛，目前在德国、瑞士、美国、法国、日本、英国等设有分支，拥有包括厂商和个人在内的会员8万多名，遍布全球五大洲50多个国家。 What do mad cows, foot-and-mouth disease, biogenetically altered food and wine, and McDonald’s all have in common? They are anathema to the “Slow Food Movement”, an international grass roots group with about 80,000 members in more than 50 countries dedicated to preserving the cultural heritage of great eats. Founded in Italy (of course!) in 1986 by Carlo Petrini, the Slow Food Movement has grown into "an international response to effects fast food has on our society and life." Believing that efficiency, biotechnology and other global forces erode our abilities to savor not only our food, but also our lives, Slow Food suggests our defense should begin "at the table. Let us rediscover the flavors and savors of regional cooking and banish the degrading effects of Fast Food." They’ve got a point. If we are what we eat, then we are all a bunch of speed freaks. We grab a ready-made lunch in a bag and eat it in our cars or at our desks; we rarely share a meal with our families or friends; we rush around like a bunch of mad cows on dope, shoving whatever we can into our mouths to keep going. No wonder we feel lousy, stressed out and overweight. Given our preference for fast, efficient food, it’s not surprising that our entire culture has been McDonalds-ized: tasteless, homogenous, and quick. “慢食”，并不是慢慢吃，而是用珍惜传统、细尝食材的心情，用感情去体会食物。人的口味被大量生产的食品工业主宰后，可以尝到的味道就会越来越少；快餐化带动食品产业的规格化、全球化，让人逐渐失去自主的味觉，失去对传统美味的判别能力。“慢食”运动，不只有精致饮食，从食材的生产到烹煮、食用，都抱持一种“缓慢就是美”的态度，培养出自己的生活步调，掌握自己的品味，让世界充满多样的丰富。 If real culture is about diversity, flavor and uniqueness; if it is about gathering around the table to share the wealth of the earth, our traditions and each other, then we’re running seriously late for breakfast. But the Slow Food folks want us to wake up and smell the coffee. Real coffee, not instant. They want us to rediscover the pleasure of using our senses, slowing down enough to develop our taste, appreciate the flavors of food and drink, and cultivate the art of living. They’ve given us a whole new reason to invite the friends, break out the good wines and rediscover the tradition and joy of the long-night dinner party. But Slow Food isn’t only about savoring an evening meal. Defending local culinary traditions and regional, unaltered foods and wines are part and parcel of the whole idea. According to the Slow Food manifesto, culinary and biological preservation is the only way to keep standardization of food from eradicating culinary memory and traditional tastes. But more importantly, food is a window to culture, and preserving and sharing culinary heritage is about preserving our own unique cultures in the face of global homogenization. Call it eco-gastronomy. |
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